Hi guys!
John and I are back with the SHORT SHORT VERSION of something: putting up drywall! This is really more of crash course/overview than a full tutorial, but if you've got 5 minutes, then let me show you the general process from start to finish, plus the basic tools and materials you'll need:
If nothing else I hope this demystifies another Big and Scary aspect of home remodeling, and shows you that you CAN do it, if you're willing to put in the time.
If nothing else I hope this demystifies another Big and Scary aspect of home remodeling, and shows you that you CAN do it, if you're willing to put in the time.
Plus it saved us like $1,300, so...
Ah yeah, PLAY IT, Q.
(They're totally playing 50 Ways To Say Goodbye. You will not convince me otherwise. :D)
And while we're celebrating, let's give away some goodies from last month's art post!
The winner of armored Baymax is Samantha Chau
The winner of balloon Baymax is Angela S.
And my wild card winner is Granny Roberta
Congrats, you three, and please e-mail me your mailing addresses!
And to the rest of you, happy Wednesday! I'm off to film some plumbing tutorials with John (YUSS), so stay tuned to watch me WIPE OUT another reno project and become FLUSHED with victory. And probably also make more poo puns, since I gotta be me. ::shrug::
Haha, Q!
ReplyDeleteHave fun and be safe with those plumbing tutorials!
ReplyDeleteThat damp washcloth tip is life-changing! I have patched drywall in the past and the worst part is the sanding. The house is looking great!
ReplyDeleteMartine
Did you add the texture just to match existing walls? Is there an advantage to adding texture otherwise?
ReplyDeleteTo match the existing walls, yes, but texture also helps hide the drywall seams, since those usually show even once they're taped & mudded. (If you look down your own walls in the light you can often see the seams through the texture.)
DeleteJen,
ReplyDeleteYou are so good with these tutorials! And John is great with filming/ possible editing them! You guys rock! And the attached STNG episode is my favorite one with Q. John de Lancey is the best.
Maureen
P.S. It was great to see you in Pittsburgh!
Another good tip I've heard from a pro is, don't worry too much about getting the first coat of mud perfectly smooth when you're putting it on. Just give it a few quick strokes and then move on.
ReplyDeleteRemember, the idea is to come back later and touch it up (or smooth it over using Jen's washcloth tip).
The wet washcloth tip is BRILLIANT. I think the main advantage to hiring for drywall installation is time. Pros come in and zip zip done. What you did certainly looks as good as any professional job I have seen! I really enjoy these videos, thanks for making them.
ReplyDeleteThis is way too small to be its own video, but maybe as part of another - is there an easy/correct way to open a paint can?? You'd laugh at how long I struggled with a little can of woodstain today...
ReplyDeleteI should add it was your earlier painting video that helped give me the nerve to do that staining project on my own, by the way. And having a wet washcloth in hand to instantly wipe up "oopsies" worked like charm!
A paint can opener is the easiest thing, but a flathead screwdriver you don't especially care about also works reasonably well. Basically, you shove something flat between the can and the edge of the lid and lever that, and repeat the process at a few intervals around the can until it's released enough that you can pull it the rest of the way off. If there's an easier or better way than that, I've never encountered it.
DeleteExtra tip from my painter mom, though, once you've opened your can, grab a hammer and largish nail, and make a few holes in the little well (moat?) that runs around the can, so that any paint/stain/etc. that ends up in that well will drain out, rather than just staying there and drying itself into a glue that will hold the lid in there very firmly indeed once you re-close the can. It will b much easier to open the can again the next time you need to do so.
I never win your art giveaways 😞
ReplyDeleteJen and John, I love these videos. I just wanted to say, it's sometimes hard to hear you unless you're right next to the camera. I tried to play the video thru the speakers on my computer, (which I'll be the first to admit are completed cr*p), and even up at 100% I couldn't hear parts of it. I had to get my earbuds and even then, sometimes it's hard to hear what you're saying. Is there a way to record the audio with a microphone?
ReplyDelete(By the way, this has been a consistent problem across all the videos so far. Although since no one else has commented on it, maybe I'm just going deaf.)
Regardless, thank you for the content, as it's always well presented and well thought out. Here's to many more!
Worked for a while as a painter, too. You guys are good.
ReplyDeleteI live in a very dry part of the country (YYC). For long seams (long wall/ horizontal drywall installation works brill), we always dampened our paper tape before embedding it. You want good adhesion, and the paper is quite hydroscopic. Dampening it first allows it to 'grip' into the base layer of mud better, and avoids that dreaded edgecurl.
Tear to length (using a metal plaster blade as a 'stop'). Roll up loosely. Dunk in water and remove, then let it sit (still rolled) edgewise on a lid (drips) whilst bapping that base coat of mud on the seam. Slide the roll onto your arm like a bracelet, ease it off while bedding the tape (two plaster blades, one to bed, one to clean the other). Aim for some squeezeout, not too much as you don't want wrinkles.
And follow Jen's good advice: get good plaster blades. Those plastic ones are so frustrating to work with.
-Carol S-B
Excellent video. Short and to the point, shows just what we need and no fluff or rambling. You guys are really great, all your endeavors come out so well, you work together so well. Always excellent results. Love seeing these house reno videos, because it also shows us a little of the progress you are making. I LOVE seeing house renovations. :)
ReplyDelete